Erik Orsenna's travel diary along the Rhône

As part of the initiative for the world’s great rivers, Erik Orsenna, writer and academician, set off on a journey along the Rhône. Here is his original account, accompanied by a summary and map of his journey.

Every river is a double journey, in space of course, but also in time. Like an archaeologistv removing layers of sand or earth one by one to uncover the past, the river travels through time. To travel down a river is to travel back through the centuries.
Doubtless influenced by the presentations at the Musée d’Arles, which were so rich and informative but also a little chauvinistic, I thought that the Upper Rhône was less rich in remains than the Provençal part, close to the river mouth.
The following short report will show you the depth of my error (and the extent of my ignorance).
Erik Orsenna, introduction to the travel diary of the Rhône river

Exploration along the Rhône

The Rhône, the majestic river that crosses Europe, is a veritable lifeline for the regions it flows through. Its journey begins in the icy heights of the Furka glacier in the Swiss Valais and ends majestically in the Mediterranean Sea.

This journey through time and space reveals not only breathtakingly beautiful landscapes but also a rich archaeological and cultural history.

Here is a map of the stops in Erik Orsenna’s travel diary:

The Haut-Rhône, a journey through time

The Upper Rhône route often begins with school memories, where poems such as Lamartine’s evoke deep feelings, often associated with landscapes such as those of Lac du Bourget.

This lake, the largest in France at 18 kilometres long, is a true natural wonder. Despite the sometimes capricious weather, the town of Aix-les-Bains welcomes visitors to discover the many facets of this lake, from its ecological importance to its poetic legends.

Environmental conservation efforts have helped to clean up the lake’s waters and bring back species of fish that were once extinct, such as Arctic char and lavaret. However, challenges remain, including managing water flows and protecting the lake from pollutants carried by the transport routes that run along its shores.

The sweetness of life and melancholy

Following the Rhône, the discovery continues in places imbued with serenity and melancholy.

The Canal de Savières, a small waterway linking Lac du Bourget to the river, offers an enchanting setting reminiscent of a fairytale. This picturesque landscape is a haven of peace for visitors and locals alike, with traditional crafts such as copperware in Lavours perpetuating ancient skills.

The lônes, the outflowing arms of the Rhône, have been rehabilitated to become vibrant ecosystems. The Compagnie Nationale du Rhône (CNR) has worked with environmental associations to breathe new life into these areas, bringing back species such as the beaver and a host of birds.

These efforts illustrate the importance of striking a balance between human intervention and the preservation of nature.

Treasures of Villebois and Sault-Brenaz

Small towns like Villebois and Sault-Brenaz reveal historic treasures that are often overlooked.

Villebois, with its theatre and Roman amphitheatre, and Sault-Brenaz, with its stone quarries and white-water lake, bear witness to a past that has been combined with the present, rich in industrial and tourist activities.

Today, the banks of the Rhône are a leisure centre, attracting water sports enthusiasts from all over the world.

The Lyon Metropolitan Area and the Port of Lyon

As you descend towards the Lyon metropolitan area, the change in landscape is striking. Fields give way to warehouses, a sign of intense industrial activity. The Port of Lyon Edouard Herriot, despite its spatial constraints and inherent risks, plays a crucial role in the regional economy. Efficient management of freight flows is essential to maintaining the port as a European logistics hub.

The Port of Lyon, although limited in size, demonstrates the importance of organisation and management to maximise the use of available space. The combination of different modes of transport and the management of intermodal interactions pose constant challenges, but are essential to support the region’s economy.

Vienna, a blend of culture and gastronomy

The city of Vienna, with its rich Gallo-Roman heritage, is also renowned for its culinary culture. Legendary chefs such as Fernand Point have made the city a gastronomic destination not to be missed.

The Jazz à Vienne festival attracts thousands of visitors every year, adding a musical dimension to its cultural appeal.

Roussillon and Camargue, between nature and industry

Péage-de-Roussillon, with its Osiris chemical platform, juxtaposes heavy industry with conservation efforts on the island of La Platière, a nature reserve. These efforts demonstrate the complexity of reconciling economic development and environmental protection.

The Camargue, the Rhône delta, is a region that is both rich and fragile. Known for its rice and salt farming, it faces environmental challenges such as flooding and rising sea levels. Conservation efforts, such as those led by the Camargue Regional Nature Park, are essential to maintaining this unique ecosystem.

The Rhône is much more than just a river; it is a vital artery that has shaped the landscapes, history and culture of the regions it flows through. From the heights of the Alps to the salty expanses of the Camargue, every stretch of its course offers a wealth of discoveries and lessons to be learned.

The river embodies the duality of nature and civilisation, a constant reminder of the importance of harmony between the two for a sustainable future.